Wednesday, December 15, 2010

December 14-15, 2010... Happy Campers



Finally I got some peaceful time to write more. This post is probably going to be a little bigger because by far what I am going to update you with is the highlight of our stay.

On Tuesday December 14, 18 people including three of us gathered for a Field Safety Training Program (FSTP). They call it "happy campers" here for either because some people do get happy at the end of the camping or the training is so excruciating that they try to make you feel good by giving this program a happier name... :P Well, for me to start with it was not so happy experience but later it was.. :)

We were on a very tight schedule from the minute the program started. We first had a classroom training on risk management as camping on the ice in the middle of no where involves great risk. Negligence or poor handling of risky issues from your side may get your life as well as lives of people around you in danger. We then learnt about some medical issues encountered because of high wind, cold, sun etc. Sunburns are most common, in fact, with the Antarctic ozone hole, UVA and UVB radiations are extremely strong. There are direct UV radiations as well as those reflected from snow. Sunblock is a must to avoid any sunburns, skin cancer etc. The other issue is snow blindness. If you take out your sunglasses/ goggles you are sure to get a temporary or longer lasting blindness caused by snow. When we were flying to McMurdo, I briefly experienced it while looking out of the flight. This is similar to when you look at the sun for sometime, later when you close your eyes, you can still see a sort of negative image of the sun. This itself is annoying. The aftereffects of snow blindness are almost the same but just replace the sun's small disc by an extended white sheet all over your view. The next things we were told about were frostsnips and frostbites (due to cold winds on exposed body parts) and hypothermia (drop in body temperature). These can get pretty dangerous at high altitudes if neglected in primary stages. Let me not scare you all anymore. However, I can assure you is that we were made aware of these issues and asked to take enough precautions to avoid them.

So, with this knowledge, we all were taken to a remote location for camping on the ice. It was not too far away from McMurdo. Even the Kiwi base (NZ station) was in our visibility. There was some traffic around as well, since we were also close by the balloon launching (BLAST - an astronomy program) facility. Anyhow, the idea was still to simulate the field experience. So, Megan and Julian our instructors planned our training such that they will let us know what all to do and then will leave us on our own on the ice for the night. We had a beautiful view of Mount Erbus (an active volcano) and Mount Terror. The site was on sea ice (McMurdo is itself a part of Ross island), but we were not directly on the sea ice. We were on a glacier. There were interesting structures close by called pressure ridges where a part of sea ice tries to push the glacier in other direction. In fact, this region has some thin ice and seals can make their way out on the open. We saw a couple of them very far away probably sun bathing.. :D

We reached this place where we were taught how to work with special stoves, how to put up tents etc. We then built a 'snow wall' to protect our small tents called Mountaineering tents from the wind. We set up our kitchen which was mostly making hot water only.. :) All the food was either dehydrated where you simply add hot water and let it stay warm inside your jacket for 10 minutes or so to cook or it was just nuts, chocolates and energy bars. The drinks were hot water or hot chocolate. As the day passed, the sun and a lot of physical work were making us too warm. People started to enjoy their "beach vacation" by building fun structures like a dining room for all 18, snow trenches to sleep in for the night. 8 snow trenches which resembled small tombs gave that area a look of a graveyard. We knew that the place where we will be going to field camp is going to be nowhere closer to this one. It will be all flat, with no direction bearing (compass doesn't work near South Pole effectively), windy, cold (25 to 30 degree below what we were experiencing here) and at least 3000 m above this sea level. So, this indeed was just a beach vacation.



We did have unlimited supply of water. Just scoop fresh snow nearby and add it to the pot to boil.


The next day morning, we were taken back to an on-the-field classroom which was a small hut- a little permanent structure compared to the tents. We were taught how to use VHF, HF radios, their protocols etc. HF radio had variable frequencies (by varying the length of the dipole antenna) from 4.77 MHz to 11.33 MHz. The protocols were way easier than that HAM radio protocols. I am not sure if you can use these radios for hamming though.. Anyway, we setup and made test calls with HF.

After this we had a real life scenario training. They gave us a situation: "Your flight has crashed while going to remote place. The plane is burnt. You manage to just get one survival bag and HF radio. You are 9 people and one of you has a broken leg. There is a condition 1 storm coming from the horizon. (Condition 1 is the worst condition: windy, stormy, white everywhere, you loose all orientation, while Condition 3 is the best condition with clear weather.) How will you handle this situation?" We had to use our classroom knowledge from our risk management class. Set up HF antenna quickly to request help. In the mean time, set up the tent, secure it with snow wall, boil hot water, tend to the injured person etc.. We actually did this all as if we were in that situation really... We were later told that this is probably one of the worst case situation thrown at us. This part of the training was good. We used every bit of knowledge gathered during the whole camping time.

The second scenario was "We are inside a tent. One of us went out to use the toilet and never came back in 20 minutes. It is condition 1 outside. How would you go an rescue that person before he/she gets hypothermic." Well, we failed this test. We spent too much time planning and probably had lost that person by then. Finally when we got out making a human chain with the help of a rope and with buckets on our heads to simulate the stormy condition where we can't see/ hear anything and have no bearing, we were all so disoriented that we had to break the chain and come back. The lesson learnt was: not to go out in stormy conditions!

We were so tired and exhausted with the two day continuous drills that by the time we got back to McMurdo we all were drained out. We still had to sit through a helicopter rescue video and learn things without dozing off.. :P The three of us: me, Joseph and Hyomin going to the actual field camp, had to still drag our humongous sleep kits to the cargo cage provided to us (will write about that in the next post) for our next big adventure. The day ended with a nice shower and an amazing meal which we really appreciated after that dehydrated dinner we had at the camp site.

At the end of the day though we were all happy campers!



Monday, December 13, 2010

December 13, 2010... McMurdo: More Trainings and Briefings

Today's day was really hectic. We had an environment conservation briefing. Antarctica is a protected place and to conserve its natural habitat (yes! there are abundant species living in the sea) all countries have a treaty to take back what they bring here. Basically, Antarctica belongs to no one and that's why, you cannot take anything out from this place and you cannot bring anything that might contaminate the surroundings here. They ask you to dust off your shoes, camping gears, throw all the fruits, veggies that might get any fly or insects. Even whatever waste is produced here is supposed to be shipped back to your own country to dispose off. So, here at McMurdo, they carefully separate all the waste, package it and send it back to USA to dispose off.
After this briefing, we had to go and meet several people to arrange our field camping gear, food, science instruments for project, Iridium and HF communication equipment. We sort of got started on this, checked items on our list, requested stuff we might need so that they can arrange by the time we are back from our happy campers course or snow school day after. Although this was a lot to do in a day, the whole process is made a lot simpler by organizing things before hand. People here work over many seasons and thus are trained to take care of these things efficiently.

In the afternoon, we had a 2 hour course on altitude sickness. So, there are some interesting facts. When we are going to be at the South Pole the physical altitude is 9300 ft. But, with thinner air, less oxygen and thus lower pressure, altitude felt by the human body is around 11000 ft. We will be higher up at around 13000 ft pressure altitude at our remote work site. That means, the body tries to work hard to get more oxygen to the brain and the blood. In other words, it tries to ''acclimatize" by increasing respiration, heart rate, red blood cell production, pulmonary artery pressure and also diuresis (urinary output).



If the body is not well rested and hydrated at high altitudes, altitude sickness may occur at varying levels. There is something called as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) which is more common with symptoms like headache (or even mild brain swelling), fatigue, nausea etc. Severe AMS or High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) may even cause loss of muscular coordination, severe headache (severe brain swelling), decreased mental status and even death sometimes! Well, they say if you have a big head a smaller brain, you are less susceptible to HACE.. Jokes apart, this is a big deal here as it is very difficult to carry out any emergency rescue operation on a short notice because of the harsh weather conditions. The more serious version of altitude sickness may cause leakage of fluids in lungs and the only way out is an emergency evacuation to a lower altitude. Well, so we learnt about all this how to prevent it by taking it easy for the first couple of days. It takes a month to get acclimatized in these extreme conditions. But, we come on a time limited mission and get only a couple of days to 'feel better'. So, I will have to remember drinking loads of fluids to avoid following condition.. :D



December 12, 2010, A Special Day


12/12 is a special day for many reasons.. It is special because of now two pretty girls who have their birthdays on this day..

Anyway, it was a day off here. So, I just wondered around to see the sun going round and round the whole day.. We also had Crary lab tour where I saw and touched a sea version of touch-me-not plant (लाजाळूचे झाड). It was a sea cucumber from the Antarctic sea which retracted when touched.. :D I loved playing with it in that special touch tank.. I then went out on a small stroll and took a lot of pictures at 10.30 pm at night..

The mountain on the left is called Mount Discovery.


December 11, 2010... C17 Flight to the Ice


We were scheduled to be on the US air force flight C17 to McMurdo leaving at 7.30 am. A shuttle took us to the same place where we did our clothing. We were required to wear the Cold Weather gear. After the security check in they showed us film about Antarctica and the dangers involved in this adventure. We were then taken to C17 by a bus. This loud hippo (Airbus 330-200) can land on ice (of course it needs a longer runway). We enjoyed the five hour journey in its enclosed belly at the end of which we were treated with the breath-taking views of this end of the planet..



December 10, 2010... Gearing up for Extreme Cold Weather


The next day, our main task was to get cold weather gear from USAP's Clothing Distribution Center (CDC). We went there and tried all those different clothes. There are at least three layers and it is necessary to have pretty much all of them when you enter this cold continent. Here is a poster showing what you need to wear on the flight to McMurdo, Antarctica..



December 9, 2010... In the land of Kiwis



We arrived Christchurch pretty late in the afternoon after a 36 hour journey. But, the beauty of this place just dazzled us so much that the fatigue of travel simply vanished as we entered. It was so pleasant, green and bright that for a second we just forgot the worst weather in Blacksburg (the night before we left, we touched -20 degrees C!)

We had a wonderful afternoon at the Cathedral, downtown of Christchurch. It was not so difficult to keep being jet lagged when there were so many things to do.. My brain simply started jumping around with joy to even allow me to try hand at a life-sized chess. :D





That evening we had a nice Indian dinner at "Little India", heard a Scottish band practice in a garden, and even saw a statue taking a shower!




December 7, 2010... On our way to the South

It has been my dream to go to the space one day. I was always fascinated with the poles, especially because of the auroras, and several other astronomy related reasons such as the sun is either up in the sky the whole time just circling close to horizon or the whole sky rotates around just one point. But, I never really dreamed of being at any pole, especially the South Pole. Here I am.. Close to one of the poles. In fact, if you know, we cannot really go to the North Pole as there isn't one on land. It's somewhere in the Arctic Ocean. South Pole can be physically visited and more interestingly it physically moves by about 10-15 feet each year. The continent is not just a mammoth iceberg. It actually has land, live volcanoes. Apparently, the plate on which this continent is situated moves a bit every year, physically moving the South Pole.

Anyway, as a part of my space science project, this year I got a chance to be deployed in Antarctica, visit South Pole, work there on two instruments and the go to a remote place to fix a previously deployed instrument. This is a once in a life time opportunity and I realized this only when I was on my flight to Christchurch, NZ from where we were will be set to McMurdo, the largest base station on Antarctica under the United States Antarctic Program (USAP). After a rigorous physical examination, NZ Visa process, and a number of drills to set up our equipment, I was on my way to the South with two other colleagues: Joseph and Hyomin...